You may like Piedmont, Tuscany or Veneto, although they're all beautiful place for both living and toursim, I suppose Piedmont meet the most your request. You may like Turin for "cafe culture and conversation": I put all in the same sentence because cafe in Turin were, especially in 1800, very important place for meeting between people who "made Italy" (or even Europe), like Giuseppe Mazzini.
Those three regions are the most important for wine; personally, I'd say Piedmont for wine as a culture, Tuscany for wine as an industry, Veneto for wine as a... drinker

(sayed in fond way!)
In Piedmont, the surrounding of Turin are better than Turin itself: Langhe, Monferrato, Alba, Gattinara, Ghemme are some of the cities/town/land you should looking for (all one hour from Turin or less).
Turin is also one of the most underestimated Italian city by touristic value, so you're going to avoid the "holyday crowd".